05 August 2012

A Time to Keep: My journey in Mexico


A reflection I shared this morning at my home church, Shalom Mennonite Congregation:

Good morning. It’s hard to believe it’s been a year since I was last with you all, receiving a blessing here in Westover park before setting off for a year in Mexico with MCC’s SALT program. Before I share a few reflections, I want to express my sincere gratitude for the support I have felt throughout this year from the Shalom community: for the financial assistance you gave to make this experience possible, for the emails and prayers, for supporting my parents and for believing in me and the work of MCC. It was an honor to follow in the footsteps of some of you who have spent time with MCC and it’s wonderful to be back with each of you again.

 Knowing how to share this experience is a challenge. There are lots of ways to tell my story. I could have given you the one word version. When asked “How was your year,” I’ve been known to respond, “good.” But today, I will try to give you a version that falls somewhere between one word and a novel (hopefully closer to the one-word answer, though). The challenge to share with you all is a good one. It gives me the opportunity to intentionally process in a distinct way, and you, as a community that supported me, deserve to know what I’ve been up to. I hope that in speaking with you, I can share just a small portion of the joys, struggles, culture, and spirit I experienced in and with the Mexican pueblo and those I had the pleasure of walking with this year.

I assume all of you global citizens could locate our southern neighbor on a map, but this year, I gained a new appreciation of Mexico’s immensity. It is close to 2 million square kilometers, making it the 14th biggest country in the world. I spent most of my year in the southernmost state of Chiapas, about two and a half hours from the Guatemalan border. Mexico is comprised of 31 states and Chiapas is one of the most heavily populated by indigenous people. Additionally, the state government proudly claims that Chiapas is “no longer the poorest state in Mexico.” It has now risen one rung on the ladder in terms of socioeconomic indicators. I lived in the city of San Cristobal de las Casas, the cultural capital of the state, known for its highland charm, Mayan influence, and the presence of social progressives from all over the world.

I worked at an MCC partner called INESIN doing primarily communications and administrative work. INESIN (Institute for Intercultural Studies and Research) works to promote peace through intercultural and interreligious encounter in a part of the country that has been affected (especially in the last 20 years) by extreme tension and even violence between Catholics, Protestants and those practicing Indigenous Mayan Spirituality. In essence, INESIN’s approach is to build relationships across religious divides through workshops, seminars, and courses of common interest, for example, preventing domestic violence, the study of Biblical languages, and discussion of migration issues. Even more than the translating, website development, and delegation planning work that I did, building relationships with a cross section of the Mexican population, participating in workshops and discussing the current political situation of Mexico with whoever happened to show up for our daily coffee break was the most powerful part of my time with INESIN.

 I also lived with a truly incredibly host family who welcomed me with open arms and hearts. Each one had an affectionate way of addressing me. Liliana, a 36 year-old homemaker called me Kelina (coincidentally also a nickname my biological mother has been known to use).  Gabriel, a 37 year-old law professor and Spanish teacher called me Keliciana and my then-first-grade brother Eduardo, called me Kelly Marie Miller. Leaving them just over three short weeks ago was a heart-wrenching experience and I still feel a stabbing sensation in my chest when I think of life continuing as normal in the Estrada-Lescieur home without me.

In my home this year,  I sticky-tacked quotes, pictures and other memorabilia in a long strip to my bedroom wall. One passage sticky-tacked to my wall was Ecclesiastes 3:1-7:

For everything there is a season, and a time for every matter under heaven:
a time to be born, and a time to die;
a time to plant, and a time to pluck up what is planted;
a time to kill, and a time to heal;
a time to break down, and a time to build up;
a time to weep, and a time to laugh;
a time to mourn, and a time to dance;
a time to throw away stones, and a time to gather stones together;
a time to embrace, and a time to refrain from embracing;
a time to seek, and a time to lose;
a time to keep, and a time to throw away;
a time to tear, and a time to sew;
a time to keep silence, and a time to speak;
a time to love, and a time to hate;
a time for war, and a time for peace.

This well-known verse was a comfort to me throughout my term as I went through both mountain-top and valley experiences. It is also one I have come back to since leaving as I struggle with what feels like an all-too-abrupt transition that leaves little room for me to live in what we called at reorientation in Akron a “liminal space,” neither here nor there. On the morning of July 19, I was in Mexico and by noon of that same day, I was in the U.S. Though I know the realities of life in these two countries are connected, right now it’s hard to feel anything other than, “my reality in each place is so different.” 

As I was preparing my reflection for you all, this verse spoke to my experience in a new way. I was more aware of the juxtapositions highlighted throughout the passage: birth and death, weeping and laughing, seeking and loosing, maintaining silence and speaking. One of my biggest philosophical struggles over the year dealt with complexity and juxtaposition. I had the profound sense of the holding the beautiful and the ugly at the same time, witnessing pain and joy, love and hate within the same people and even the same experience.  I saw the good in the bad and the bad in the good many times this year. I saw contradictions and shades of grey every day in Mexico, even in the way I was living and I would like to share a few examples with you all:

First, for a long time, I said my host family was the best part of my experience in Mexico. More recently, as I came to appreciate even more what my fellow MCCers, work environment, friends and location contributed to my experience, I began to qualify the former statement with “my host family was one of the best parts of my experience.” Almost-daily card-playing and knitting with Liliana, political discussions and off-color jokes with Gabriel and cookie-baking and mostly good-natured sibling rivalry with Eduardo made me feel like such a part of the family. I would not have traded my experience with them for anything. However, each member of my family has been shaped by their cultural context in beautiful and not-so-beautiful ways that I was especially aware of as a cultural outsider. My host grandmother, Abuelita Betty, was known to make derogatory comments toward indigenous people. For example, she claimed that our frequent cockroach-visitors were a product of the indigenous people coming into the city. Liliana, when asking me about the specifics of how MCC financially supported me, said that in my situation, she would find way to shave a bit off the top for herself. Both of my host parents used frequent threats of corporal punishment as a behavior-modification technique with Eduardo and occasionally used a belt to discipline him. But despite some significant value-differences, I’m left with the overall sense that they are good people and awed at the mutual-care we developed for each other.

I witnessed contradictions on an institutional level, as well. The executive team at INESIN, an organization doing very respectable and valiant peace and reconciliation work, let go a friend and co-worker in December. I saw this process as unjust because it left no room for dialogue (a self-espoused INESIN mission) or a chance for my coworker to modify her “undesirable” behavior. Many of us who surrounded her were wounded by the process. Also, during this last year, MCC has implemented many institutional changes after several years of discernment. The New Wine, New Wineskins project, looking to reshape MCC in healthy and good ways, has also left many wounded and without jobs after many years of service to the institution.  I believe deeply in both of these organizations. They are doing good things. But I also have seen the deep pain experienced by some employees.

A third example: one of my greatest unexpected pleasures this year was learning about the still-practiced spirituality of the Maya, indigenous to southern Mexico and Central America. I came to feel God’s presence kneeling around a Mayan alter, praying always to Mother-Father God and embodied my spirituality in new ways through dance, the spicy incense that enveloped my body, kissing the ground, listening to prayer in the Tseltal and Tsotsil languages. More than anything, I experience warm acceptance by many, even as an outsider. However, as in many religions, exclusivity is a dark side of this spiritual tradition. I frequently passed through Betania, a community not so far to the Southeast of San Cristobal that was originally comprised of exiles from the community of San Juan Chamula, a traditional Tsotsil community, who rejected those who did not fit into their box of spiritual and cultural norms. And still, I’m left with the sense that so much of this spiritual tradition is a truly beautiful expression of God’s presence in the world.

Number four: Mexico is home to the richest man in the world: Carlos Slim, business magnate of a telecommunications empire. Poverty is also a harsh reality in Mexico with around half the population living below the poverty line as defined by the World Bank. Being an outsider, I had the unique opportunity to navigate fairly easily between socio-economic groups and it wouldn’t be rare for me to spend a few days in a rural community, sleeping on the ground and eating a diet based almost entirely on beans and corn, and the next day be dining at one of San Cristobal’s tourist hotspots with financially privileged Mexicans covering my bill. Being able to experience Mexico with a wide variety of people gave me a more complex picture of life in Mexico, but it also brought up a lot of difficult questions about solidarity and privilege.

If I wanted to talk about national issues or the government, the list is endless and quite painful: drug violence, corrupt elections, land grabbing, mass murders, and human trafficking to name a few. But I want to talk about migration. My perspective on this issue was, in hindsight, quite limited a year ago. I won’t say that my understanding is anywhere close to comprehensive now, but I more clearly understand the danger and difficultly for Central Americans passing through Mexico en route to the US. No, crossing the desert or the Rio Grande at the US/Mexican border is not the most dangerous part of the journey for many migrants. The journey through Mexico for many is equally, if not more harrowing. I also leave Mexico with many more human faces and stories to attach to the issue. Stories of success and failure, of hope eternal and deep despair, of a mother desperately trying to find a way back into the States to get her young daughter, born in the US, medical treatment for a tumor in her nose and the story of a father who was quite successful in the US for eight years but won’t leave Mexico again in order to stay with his daughter, “the love of his life.”

So there you have a few of the complexities and contradictions I lived during the last year. The question I’m left with is, what good does it do to live these complexities, to have seen them and feel utterly confused? I have no answer. What I’m trying to do in the moment is to rejoice in the joy, bear witness to the pain and not shy away from naming these contradictions and those I will face as I adapt to a different reality. 

I wanted to close my reflection by reading a poem called “Narrative Theology” by Padriag O Tuama, an Irish poet doing peace and reconciliation work. For me, it speaks of the power of an unfolding story in the face of questions, contradictions, pain and love. It speaks to my unfolding story, of which my time in Mexico will play a significant part, and the story each of you are living.

“Narrative Theology”

And I said to Him, “Are there answers to all of this?”
And He said, “The answer is in a story, and the story is being told.”
And I said, “But there is so much pain.”
And he answered, “Pain will happen.”
Then I said, “Will I ever find meaning?”
And He said, “You will find meaning where you give meaning.”
The answer is in a story, and the story is unfolding.
The question is not where, but how.
The question’s never finished or exhausted.
And the question’s in the asking not the answer.
The answer’s in the breathing of the question.
In the love of holding onto what was never whispered, never seen;
But what we dreamed of in the morning, but forgot while Venus crept around the nighttime of your sleeping.
The answer is in the living, not the knowing.
The answer is in the telling of the story; in the half-forgotten memory and all unfinished stories.
The answer is in the showing time of senses.
The answer is in the question, in the learning,
In the faded pages of writing, in the letters sent to lovers; in the paying for the other.
The answer is the generous, is the truthing, the absolutely truthful answer.
And forgiving is the giving of what you don’t deserve.
It’s what I’ll serve because you’re hungry, even though you may not know it.
The answer is in the living and the dying,
in the trying for redemption on an empty hill of crosses.
It’s the shoring up of hope and the gathering of losses.
It’s the looking for companions in the hills and in the glens.
It’s the waking up, and walking up and starting up again.
The answer is in the living and the trying.
And I said to the wise man, “What is the answer to all of this?”
He said, “The answer is in the story, and the story is just unfolding.”   

So, what comes next in my story? I’ll be in the area until the end of August at which point, I’m moving back to Goshen. I’ll start a paralegal position at an organization called Just Help that provides civil legal assistance to those who don’t qualify for pro bono aid, but can’t pay for full-priced legal services. I’ll be working with their family law and immigration cases to see if public interest law could be a part of my future. I’ll also be singing as part of a semi-professional choir and working to reengage the Goshen community I knew while in college and also trying to forge a new place in that community as a college grad.  

11 July 2012

The last one from Sancris


So this is it. Tomorrow night, I take the bus to Mexico City and it’s goodbye San Cristobal. In many ways, the fact that I´m leaving hasn’t sunk in yet.  I’m living my life here exactly as it’s been lived for the past ten months (except for the fact that I took off of work today and have dismounted the hundreds of colorful quotes, cards and letters that adorned my room this year from my walls), but I also know a big change is coming: a change that will bring a lot of joyful reunions and excitement about the future, but will also, at moments, leave a sharp pain in my heart.

I’m sure the ways in which I will miss this place, this experience, these people, will only become clear to me as I settle into another rhythm of life. And for that reason, I can’t tell you what will be the hardest part of leaving...yet. What I can do is make a list of a few things I will miss and a few things I won’t. I think it’s easy to glorify an experience in hindsight, and I’m sure I’ll do much of that for the rest of my life. I do, however, think it’s also important to acknowledge that no experience is perfect and there are certain parts of Mexico that I will be glad to leave behind.

I won’t miss:
  • some smells. Yes, the bakeries smell heavenly, but I will have no problem saying goodbye to sewage smells and the dried fish section of the market.
  • closed streets. Houses are built very close together here; neighbors usually share a side wall. Added to the lack of space between houses, a protective front wall always extends to the street and the gate usually has spiky points on top to prevent intruders. Occasionally, I walk by a seldom-open gate and am blown away by what I see inside: a spacious and tasteful patio, a restored colonial home or even an entire subdivision. While I understand the perceived security walls can bring, I won’t miss feeling alone and claustrophobic as I walk down the streets.
  • meat. Yes, I’ve grown accustomed to meat and yes, I successfully downed Eduardo’s (former) pet rabbit last week (don’t tell, he would be horrified to know that he wasn’t, in fact, eating “free range chicken”). However, returning to a majority-vegetarian diet will be a welcome change.
  • unknown males leering and making unwelcome comments.  Of course this happens in the US too, but my eyes and skin-tone won’t be abnormal there, and our culture is not quite as accepting of men telling unknown women they love them or appraising their bodies.
  • scented toilet paper. Again, I understand that when you throw toilet paper into the trash can instead of the bowl, a “fresh, flowery scent” can be appealing, but I’m all for non-smelly tp.
 I will miss…
  • the colors and the sounds. I have a hunch that the atmosphere in the US will feel sterile to me. Where will the fireworks be at all hours of the day? The colorful market? Indigenous language and clothing? Pumping music? Water and gas trucks announcing their presence with catchy tunes blared over loudspeakers?
  • spanish. I hope that speaking Spanish will still be a part of my life in the States, but even so, I know that it won’t be to same extent as it is here. I may never again dream about being a contestant on “100 Mexicanos dijeron” (the Mexican version of Family Feud).
  • walking and public transportation. It’s been liberating not to have a car this year. It limits my ability to be lazy and say “I’ll just drive,” and when walking isn’t an option, a combi is just around the corner…better for the environment, better for me.
  • the food: chalupas, quesadillas, tropical fruit…
  • my family. As I was reflecting on who I consider my family here, I realized that I can’t pick between my host family and my fellow MCCers. They’ve both been such integral parts of my experience, and I will miss them each dearly: conversations with Liliana, Gabi’s jokes, Eduardo scampering around the house, Miriam’s laughter, Rick’s dance moves, Jacquie’s wisdom, Ezra’s thoughtfulness and Hilary’s exuberant greetings.
And with that, it’s off to the next great adventure. I’m ready to go, but hope to be back. Although Mexico will not be my home next year, it will be my next-door neighbor and there will be many ways for me to keep living this experience from the other side of the border.

18 June 2012

The handsome one, the old one and the woman


Though the end of my SALT term is coming to a rapid close, Mexico’s elections are nearing even more rapidly. On July 1, Mexicans will vote for a new president and Chiapas will elect a new governor (not to mention thousands of municipal officers). I may know more about this election than the U.S.' pending presidential election. It’s pretty hard to miss with the rampant propaganda. T-shirts, painted walls along the highway, Facebook and Wikipedia ads, stickers covering taxis’ rear windshields, larger-than-life billboards, and most ingeniously (according to me), umbrellas (in the once-again-rainy Chiapas) are everywhere you turn. This promotional material assaults with bright colors, phrases like “mi compromiso es contigo,” “diferente presidenta,” and “el cambio verdadero está en tus manos,” and even the occasional pop song adapted to promote a given candidate and blared from bullhorns atop moving vehicles.

Mexico holds presidential elections every six years, and interestingly enough, July 1 will mark my second in-country, Mexican presidential election. In 2006, I was in Mexico City with my mom, dad and family friends Tricia, Tim, Camille and Kate. We experienced first-hand the outrage expressed by many who contended (and still do) that Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO, also a candidate for this year’s election) lost the election to current president Calderón due to electoral fraud. We saw one of the many “voto por voto” protests and I have since followed Calderón’s “war on drugs” (which has left between 50-65,000 dead, over 5,000 disappeared, and an increasing normalization of this violence) with both interest and desperation. All of this year’s presidential hopefuls hammer home the fact that Mexico is in a state of “national emergency.”  It’s been a long and hard six years for Mexico and this country is ready for a new president.  But, who will the new president be and what chance does he or she actually have of improving the situation?  Drumroll please. I now present the candidates:

Enrique Peña Nieto (the handsome one)


Running under the banner of the PRI/Verde coalition, former governor of Mexico state, Peña Nieto has been leading in the polls for the entire race (currently at 42%), though the gap between he and the other two front runners has narrowed since April. Also helping Peña Nieto is the support of the national TV station Televisa, which is allegedly providing him favorable coverage at the expense of the other candidates. This has sparked the “Yo Soy 132” movement that, in addition to criticizing Peña Nieto, also calls into question the biased reporting of Mexican media. The biggest thing Peña Nieto has going against him is his party affiliation. The PRI ruled Mexico from 1920-2000 and in addition to a focus on Mexico’s state of national emergency, the other two candidates warn of the perils of again electing a PRI candidate to the country’s highest office. And, lest we forget, Peña Nieto is the handsome one. Liliana says that’s why she’ll be voting for him. I honestly can’t figure out whether she’s telling the truth. I don’t think she knows herself.

Andrés Manuel López Obrador (the old one)

AMLO, candidate for the “leftist” coalition of PRD, PT and MC, was favored to win the 2006 presidency and claims (along with many of his supporters) to have lost in a fraudulent election. But, this former mayor of Mexico City is back. In some ways, AMLO reminds me of Obama (running under the premise of enacting change, but probably not quite as far to the left as he might have you believe).  In the past month or so, AMLO moved into second place in the polls, but recently returned to 3rd (only trailed by outsider Gabriel Quadri de la Torre). Student and progressive mobilization in his favor probably won’t be enough for him to pull off a win. Gabriel (along with most of the INESIN staff) is pulling for AMLO and my host dad tells Liliana they won’t sleep in the same bed for the entire sexenio (six-year term) if she doesn’t vote for AMLO. Though I’m a bit cynical about what type of positive change any president can achieve during a term, I certainly agree with Gabi that, of anyone, AMLO has the most interesting outlook: ”only the people can save the people,” and like my friend Renzo said on Facebook, “yes, only the people can save the people, but it helps to have someone with power supporting us.”       

Josefina Vázquez Mota (the woman)

Known more commonly only as “Josefina,” Vázquez Mota is the first female candidate for Mexican’s presidency from a major political party. Running with the conservative PAN party (which has also held the presidential seat for the last 12 years), Josefina’s main selling point is that she’s “different,” both as a woman and to distance herself from the largely unpopular Calderón. Like AMLO, her chances of winning are slim, but that doesn’t stop many (for example, Miriam’s landlords), from proudly hanging her banners proudly from their rooftops.

The fear of fraud in this election is large. In the end, it’s also hard to know how big of an effect the new president will have. It’s a difficult situation to step into and it’s hard not to acknowledge that on many issues the president’s hands will be tied by outside pressures and influenced by corruption. 

It looks like many progressives will be disappointed in 12 days (or whenever the results are finalized). However, as Marina Pages, director of SiPaz reminded us at INESIN's recent analysis of Mexico’s current context, holding elections is only one factor in a functioning democracy, and there are more ways to change a system than from the top-down. She stressed that regardless of the outcome, many working for positive change will continue striving for human rights, justice and peace. And that work, though slower than that of the government, may, in the end, be more important anyway.    

04 June 2012

Tromping in the mud and kissing baby crocodiles

The last two months have been filled with lots of traveling and celebration...and a little bit of tromping in the mud. 

In April, I visited Oaxaca (both the coast and the city), Mexico City (for an MCC Mexico retreat), the indigenous community of Santa Rita, Ocosingo (for an INESIN workshop) and, more recently, the Chiapanecan coast (where I sweated buckets, ate mangoes in the ocean and took copious amounts of photos of aquatic animals). 

San Cristobal's rip-roaring fair came to town following Holy Week's festivities. INESIN celebrated its fifteenth anniversary in early May (click here to see photos), and perhaps more importantly (at least to many Mexicans), I spent Mother's Day in Tuxtla with my family. Two MCCers also recently celebrated birthdays. 

As of yesterday, the realization that I have just five and half weeks left in San Cristobal hit me hard. I hope that my rapidly-dwindling time is filled with as much life as my last few months...and a healthy amount of time getting dirty. 

1. Food

Though at moments Mexico and the United States feel worlds apart, no fair, whether here or there, is complete without a fried products stand
Feria de la Primavera y la Paz, San Cristòbal
Luckily, the youngest among us know what it means to eat healthily.
Sofia on the Canals of Xochimilco, Mexico City, MCC Mexico Retreat
Hilary eating "a little, but a lot" of her apple
Annalisa came to visit! We went to the beach and caught some fishies that became our lunch.
Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca
GIANT TLAYUDA!
Oaxaca, Oaxaca
Chihuahua wants to eat GIANT TLAYUDA!
Graciela`s (my host aunt) beloved pet. Also known to eat copius quantities of Maria cookies.
2. Family

We celebrated Mother`s Day (May 10) with Liliana`s family at a balenario (restaurant/pool)...it`s pretty hot in Tuxtla
Liliana, Graciela, Tìo Rodolfo, Abueltia Bertita, Abue Fer
Eduardo, trying not to drown in the deep water.

3. Friends


Some nice Mexicans invited us for a sunset boat ride at the end of a hot day at the beach.
Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca
In addition to people-friends, we made animal-friends: TURTLE!
CRAB!
Celebrating Nov-Apr birthdays at the MCC Mexico office
MCC Mexico retreat, Mexico City
The four youngest female team members :)
Photo courtesy of Miriam Harder
Ready for a day on the Canals of Xochimilco, the last remanats of the Aztec empire built on land that is now Mexico City, but was once completely covered in water
Arturo (or as Sofia calls him, Tulo)! You`re not really jumping!
Foto courtesy of MH
Isabel
MH
A day at Lagos de Colòn with Elena and other participants in INESIN`s course on Pastoral Accompaniment in Situations of Domestic Violence.
Last weekend, I went to the beach and made LOTS of new baby friends! This is baby crocodile.
Puerto Arista, Chiapas (MH)
Baby turtles
Turtle Sanctuary, Puerto Arista MH
Other baby turtle!
MH
Mangoes at the beach with Dario, Sara, Joaquim and Miriam
Boca del Cielo, Chiapas
Here's to the next two months...

...and to more mud-tromping!
Making adobe out of dirt, water and pine needles for my co-worker Mariana's ecological house-in-progress

11 May 2012

Celebrating 15 Years of Constructing Peace in Violent Contexts

Last weekend, INESIN celebrated its 15th anniversary and I wrote a brief (less than 700 words, for a change) blog post sharing a bit of the experience and a few photos for the website. 

You can read my reflection in English or in Spanish

Click here to see a photo gallery featuring the weekend´s festivities.

14 April 2012

Eight months and counting...

A few weeks ago, Emily North, pastor of Shalom Mennonite (the congregation that I still consider my church home though I haven`t attended regurlarly for five years), asked me to write a reflection to share with my church family. This felt like a good excercise for me as Wednesday marked eight months since this adventure began. Here is my best attempt to sum up where I´ve been, where I am and where I`m going at this moment in my proyecto vida, my life project as my co-workers love to refer to this crazy journey we call life.

A few things I`ve discovered:
  • My Spanish will not be perfect by the end of this year. 
  • Mexico is beautiful: the varied landscapes; the man who monitors the comings and goings in my neighborhood, who I pass every day with an "adios;" the slugs that climb along the wooden beams at INESIN; the varied colors I soak in strolling through the artisan market; the unending hospitality.
  • Mexico is ugly: there`s trash everywhere; many soldiers are less-than-kind to immigrants; the government abuses its power; poverty and violence abound.
  • The U.S. (government) is ugly. Many Mexicans don´t look fondly upon my country of origin: our government is culpable in the increase in violence here as we`ve imported many heavy arms to fight the "war on drugs;" our immigration policy makes life difficult for many Mexican immigrants; foreign trade policy has brought economic hardship upon many small-scale Mexican farmers.   
  • The U.S. is beautiful, too. It´s always been easier for me to be critical than supportive of my country, but this year I find more and more to love about the place I´ve lived almost all of my life: the grand diversity; the (respective) acceptance of this diversity; the (again respective) opportunities and celebration of women; above all, it`s my home and the home of so many people I love. 
  • I desperately need this experience and those who I have had the privilege to meet along the way. In response to a progress report I wrote for MCC Mexico in January, Marion (one of the Country Reps) shared the following wisdom with me: "we are called to go to the ends of the earth, not because people there need us, but because we need them and what they teach us." I do believe that I´m contributing to the lives of those I interact with herein small ways: through my work at INESIN, through my openness to the traditions, values and lifestyles of others, through sharing my traditions, values and lifestyles. However, in the end, the person most changed by my year here will be me and those changes will be due, in a large part, to these people.
A few things I still hope to discover: 
  • Though since a young age I´ve been inexplicably drawn to Latin America, I have yet to put my finger on exactly what it is that draws me to this place and that keeps me dreaming about returning.I`m going to work more diligently to put my finger on it. Stay tuned...
  • How to speak French. Yes, this is a weird one given the fact that I´m in Mexico. Ironically, I never had an interest in learning until I came. This new development is partly due to several French-speaking friends, partly due to the fact that I now feel confident enough with my Spanish that I think my brain can handle French and partly because after Spanish, French can´t be that hard, right? There is a French school here in San Cristóbal, but unfortunately, I don´t think my personal $74 a month will handle these classes.
  • Basically everything having to do with God. This year has been a time for me to more intentionally focus on my faith, but every time something falls into place for me, at least five new uncertainties pop up.  

    What makes me laugh:
  • My host brother whose latest obsession is criticizing us at the lunch table if we ever talk with our mouths full (which usually happens at least 7 times a meal) and has taken to gesturing wildly to communicate when he has something to say, but is still working on his last bite of tortilla or beans.
  • My fellow MCCer Miriam (as we discussed this reflection, I told her I was going to list her under the category "what scares me", but decided that in all honesty, she fits better here :). We laugh about almost everything, but I think our favorite topic of late has been "crazy things Latino men say to gringas."
  • The little sheep that grazes outside of my neighbor´s house.

Where my expectations have been wildly surpassed:
  • The food. Two kilos gained last time I checked, and that was a few months ago...
  • The MCC community in San Cristóbal. At the Mesoamerica retreat in Guatemala this January, several MCCers from other countries asked me, "is it hard being the only SALTer in Mexico?" My response? an unequivocal "no." I´d much rather be the only SALTer with the Blocks and Miriam living just down the street than with five other SALTers spread across the country.
  • The salsa dancing. I´m starting to sound like a broken record on this one, but I CANNOT get enough of it.

Where my expectations haven`t been realized:
  • I (unrealistically) thought I´d leave this experience as an expert on all-things-Mexico. Not going to happen. In some ways, it´s like my God conundrum: every time I discover something new about the context of this vast country, another complexity emerges and leaves me with more questions than answers.
  • copy/paste my earlier comment on not leaving Mexico speaking perfect Spanish. However, I will take a whole slew of Mexican slang with me. And I find that super ,chingón.

My biggest struggle:
  • Balancing my worlds. For the last four years my worlds have been Goshen College and Harrisonburg, VA. In each of these places, I had fairly set and tight social and familial circles. All of the sudden, I´ve jumped into a world where I have many different (and primarily disconnected) communities. My host family doesn´t know my friends, many of my friends don´t know each other and certainly don´t know my coworkers, who clearly don´t know my friends or family from back home. Figuring out how to live between these disconnected realities (and be a true version of myself even though each brings out a different part of me) is not easy.

My biggest triumph:
  • The realization that not once have I regretted my decision to embark on this journey. I have an ever-present sense that this is exactly where I need to be right now. 

What scares me:
  • The future. Coming in, I knew that figuring out what to do with myself at the end of my time here would be much harder than the decision to come. I also told myself that in April I would begin to seriously explore options for next year. That time has arrived and I have no idea where next year will find me or what I´ll be doing. I know that my time in San Cristóbal is coming to a close, and I feel very much at peace with that, but otherwise, come July 24, many aspects of my life are shrouded in mist.

What gives me hope:
  • The love and support I´ve felt from many back home throughout this journey.
  • The music I´ve discovered.
  • The smallness of the world. Marie, one of my friends, tells me that the world is small for those who care for each other. I believe it. I´ve seen so many people caring for each other in amazing ways this year. I`ve come to care for many, too and have felt that love reciprocated in profound ways. This has been a constant comfort as I find myself far away from what I always considered "home," and it continues to comfort me as I slowly begin to look toward a future away from this place I currently consider "home."

22 March 2012

a story

Sometimes in life, you think you're heading to a certain destination, but you suddenly find yourself traveling to another.
[January, en route to MCC Mesoamerica retreat]
And on your way to this destination, some things will be familiar.
[My image of Guatemala at age 10: Crush soda, chicken buses and Gallo beer
below: tamales with Keila and Rachael, SALTers currently in Honduras and Costa Rica]
And it's good to make the most of this new and unexpected turn of events.
[With Isabel]

You might even love it...

...but you´ll know deep down, that another place has your heart for the moment
[Hilary, 3]
That other place is more than a physical location, it's people too.
[MCC Mexico. Small but mighty. And interestingly, the only MCC team in Mesoamerica to have children under the age of 7.]
So you'll go back home.
[Graffiti in San Cristobal] 

You'll eat,
[My host family is convinced they've been eating more healthily since I arrived...I'm not convinced :)
Hilary's 3rd birthday party]
play,
[Yami and Nicole, daughters of Cristy, who cleans our house every Friday.]

Work.
[Beet and bean seeds for planting INESIN's garden.]


The work won't be so bad when you're having fun.
[Elena, Natanael and Dario; planting INESIN's garden]
For a while, being at home is great. But sometimes you have to push your boundaries again...
[Cacti grove at Mayan ruins of Tonina]
...and step into the danger zone.
[Chiapa del Corzo fair
below: while this one might not look as dangerous, don't be fooled. To reach this bell, I had to walk across a grate above a 50 m drop and according to my host grandmother, if women enter Catholic bell towers, the bells will crack. And those things are NOT light.]

Danger zones imply risk and on new adventures you might risk breaking your favorite sunglasses,...
[Day trip to Toniná]
...but there are moments that make the risk worth taking.
[Oldest tree along the Rio Grijalva, Chiapa del Corzo]
When the wonder you inevitably experience isn't inspired by nature, it might be sparked when you're reminded of how small the world is.
[Representing Ohio State and San Francisco Community College in southern Mexico; Jaguares vs. Estudiantes soccer match, Tuxtla]
Along the way, you'll realize that there is a lot you don't know.
[yes, even though I attended a Mennonite college, I understand close to nothing about soccer]
But one thing you do know: along the way, you'll meet new friends...
[Huixtán]
...which makes you happy.
So happy, that the fact you might find yourself perched atop a decapitation altar doesn't even freak you out that much.
[Toniná]
On your adventures, you might also explore caves with exits that look like the state of Chiapas...
...or find the perfect leaves for steaming tamales...
...or meet someone who loves your new sunglasses almost as much as you loved the ones that broke.
As you take all of the beauty around you in, you will probably need to pinch yourself a few times.
[Huixtán]
After assuring yourself that you really are awake,...
[Elena's nieces and nephews after a rousing game of "duck, duck, deer"]
...you'll remind yourself to hold onto every. fleeting. moment...
...because like the grasshopper perched on your finger, you can't hold on forever.
[With Elena's Tzotzil-speaking niece and grasshopper. Communication was limited by the fact that I don't speak Tzotzil or grasshopper.]
Soon you'll be back in familiar territory once again, if only for a week...
[Mom and Dad visit]
...with the food,...
[lunch at Lagos de Montebello...meeting Dad's request of eating as much authentic food as possible]
...and the people you've always loved.
[Cathedral in San Juan Chamula]
Don't get too comfortable, though. When you think you finally know what to expect, you might suddenly find yourself in the middle of a herd of cattle.
[On the way to Sima de las Cotorras]